Approximately 3,000. Each bottle contains females with eggs, mature males and a variety of juvenile stages.
Yes. With the cap popped open, let the bottle stand at room temp for about 2 hours to allow the temperature to rise. Salinity acclimation is not necessary.
Tigger-Pods can be poured directly into your refugium and/or main tank. When dosing your display, we recommend that you add the pods after lights out so that they can settle into the rock and substrate before being consumed by predatory fish. Turn off all pumps, add the copepods and wait 30 minutes before returning your system to normal function. Since some of the copepods will cling to the side of the bottle after pouring, make sure to rinse the remainders out with clean saltwater so that you get every animal. When adding to a refugium, just pour them whether the light is on or not.
We are not certain how different medications affect copepods. It’s best to avoid adding them to any system under medication.
Copepods do best when there is ample substrate and rock. Rock, whether artificial or natural, that is highly porous is ideal. Copepods will also populate in macro algae like Chaetomorpha sp. The larger the tank and the more habitat you can offer them, the better chance they have for survival, especially when there are zooplankton predators in the tank.
Most fish and corals will consume copepods. Commonly, hobbyists add copepods to feed to animals that require live feed organisms such as mandarin dragonets and Syngnathids (seahorse, pipefish, etc.). Wrasses also tend to pick at surfaces to eat copepods and other zooplankton.
If you bought them from an local fish store (LFS), throw away the bottle and contact them. If they were purchased directly from Reef Nutrition, please contact us and we will send out replacement product, free of charge, as soon as we can.
You can find instructions here: CULTURING TIGGER-PODS®